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These are tricks that you can train your dog to do. No method will work on all dogs, but after a few training sessions, it will become evident to you what your dog responds to. It should be fun for you and the dog to do this training, your dog is eager to learn and the time together is important for owner/puppy bonding. These tricks are for fun but the same techniques are used for obedience competitions.
A dog will pick up a trick quickly if they are motivated. Motivation is indicated by the type of things that the dog does naturally. For example if a dog is always hauling shoes around the house, it should be easier to have him fetch your slippers than if he never shows any interest in shoes. If that is the case, you should start with something more familiar and enjoyable.
The method of communication you have with your dog is basically praise and rewards. Praise or reward him for correct actions and ignore incorrect ones. The dog wants the praise or reward. In short order, you will find that he will raise his paw to shake just for the praise. Praise is performed by a happy voice and possibly a pat on the head. Reward may be food, or the chance to play with his favorite toy. Work towards mostly praise because you may not always have a reward when you want something done.
The learning process is tiny baby steps, one at a time. Remember the dog does not speak your language, he is trying to please you by figuring out what you want. When he does the correct action, give him praise. Repeat the command if he doesn't do what you wanted and if he does even the smallest correct action, praise him again. The dog will figure out what you want and associate it with the command.
Your dog should be taught "NO" early on and probably already knows the word. You probably taught it to him the first time he was biting your hand or tearing up an important document. But generally you should not be using "NO" as part of the training. Reward good behavior and ignore the rest will generally provide the best learning environment. An occasional "NO" may be necessary if your dog runs off in the middle of a training session, but may also be an indication that you have exceeded his attention span.
It is preferable to train several times a day for short periods, than for one long training session. Your dog will want to train again if you quit training while he still wants to continue. Be flexible, if your dog seems bored with this trick, move on to something more enjoyable. It also never hurts to revisit all the previous learned tricks so he gets an easy rewards occasionally.
Many of the most impressive tricks are really not a trick at all, but a series of tricks combined into one presentation. It is important for you to recognize when something is too complicated and to break it down into a series of simplier tricks, later on you can combine them.
Start with the simpler tricks like "Dance" or "Fetch" and then proceed to the more difficult ones as your dog learns. It is normally best to start by teaching only one trick at a time, but later on, you can work on several tricks in the same sessions.
You can use any command for any trick as long as your remain consistent and the command words are not too similar. We use "Go to Jail" to tell our dogs it is time for them to go to their crate. Why? Because I thought it was funny and it really doesn't matter to the dogs. One common pitfall is the use of "Down" because it is the natural thing to say when a dog gets on you, or is standing on the coffee table. I use "Down" to mean lay down, and I use "Off" for the other things. I like "Off" for this because it makes me sound like I am barking too. "Off, Off, Off".
If you get through most or all of the following tricks, you will have accomplished a lot. You will be able to think like a dog and making up new tricks should come easy to you. Best of luck to you and your dog.
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Here's an example of taking an action your dog already does and turning it into a trick. When your dog gets up from a nap, usually he would stretch his front legs out so the rear is raised. This looks like he is taking a bow. When you see your dog in this position, say "Take a Bow" and give him a treat. You can also accomplish the same training by pushing gently on his back near the neck while holding a hand under his rear legs. He will essentially lay down on the front while the back is standing, hence bowing. Of course, reward this behavior and your dog will begin to bow on command. Note that if you feed your dog while he is bowing, he won't bow unless he sees the treat, treat after the bow.
Prerequisites: "Stay" and "Fetch"
Issue the command "Stay", and then throw the stick a very short distance. Keep praising him while he doesn't move: your dog will be pointing at the stick but will stay, waiting for your order: after a few seconds say "Go!" and your dog will run to get the stick. Reward with a treat when he comes back to you.
If he runs after the stick as soon as you throw it, just say "No", go get the stick and repeat.
This trick gets the attention of your dog and gives you a tool to distract your dog from things you don't want him to do.
Start sitting in front of your dog. Hide your hands so he won't be distracted and say "Focus". As soon as he looks at you in your eyes start praising him always keeping eye contact. After a few seconds give him a treat. If he looses focus, start over. Increase the time he is focused before you say "OK" and give the treat. Ten to fifteen seconds is as much as you can expect from a great dog.
Almost everyone has at least heard of the game of "Fetch". The first part of the trick has already been accomplished for you by the nature of dogs, the running after the stick part. The part you have to train is the bringing it back to you. Start with your dog near you, throw a toy a short distance. Your dog should naturally run to the toy, the predatory instinct. As soon as he has it in his mouth, call him back to you while showing him a treat. Praise him if he comes even a few inches but do not give the treat until the toy is brought back to you. If he drops the toy, then pick the toy back up and start over.
A few dogs don't chase the ball, for them, cut a slit in a tennis ball and put treats inside. Show your dog the treats are there and give him one. Throw the ball and run with your dog to the ball, then give him the treat. Soon you will be able to throw the ball and he will chase it for the treat. Once this is ingrained, start throwing the ball and giving the treats less often so eventually he will chase the ball without treats.
Prerequisites: "Sit" and/or "Lay Down"
This is one of the most useful tricks and will be used often if your dog masters it. "Stay" can be used from either the sitting or laying down position. Have your dog sit, then say "Stay" and while holding your hand open in front of him, walk away a few steps while facing him and saying "Good Boy" if he doesn't move. Start with just a few steps and make the stay longer and go further away. As things progress, go to other rooms or behind corners out of sight. Always give a treat when you return.
This trick can also be done from the "Lay Down" position.
Prerequisites: "Sit"
With this trick you have your dog standing up on hind legs and possibly moving a few steps. Starting from the "Sit" position, hold a treat above your dog's head so that he will have to stand to reach it. As soon as he stands, say "Good Boy" and give him a treat.
After this is mastered, you can move a few steps while holding the treat and he may walk for you. If he does, say "Walk" and offer praise.
When holding the treat, wiggle your fingers so your dog will associate the movement with the command "Stand". It would not be good if he stood everytime you held anything above him.
Prerequisite: "Lay Down"
This trick will be extremely easy or extremely difficult according to whether your dog lays on his back. Laying on their back is a dog's way of saying "I Surrender" to other dogs. Some dogs will not get into this position, while others get into this position because they like their belly rubbed. A few dogs feel like they are falling off the edge of the earth if their feet are straight up. If your dog doesn't like to have his belly rubbed in this position, then this is not a trick for him. Also do this trick on softer surfaces to avoid back injury, carpet and grass are fine.
Begin by issuing the command "Lay" or "Down". Say the command "Roll Over" or just "Roll" and push him from the side or grab his legs and pull him so that he rolls over. Make hime sit and give him a treat. You can eventually have him roll over more than one time.
Alternatively, have your dog lie down on his belly and hold a treat by his nose and move it around and behind him, so that he lies on his side and then rolls over. Praise and give him a treat for being a great dog.
Prerequisite: "Down"
Start by issuing the command "Down/Lay Down". Hold a treat a few inches in front of the puppy's nose then, keeping the treat close to the ground, pull it away from him. If he stands, start over and when he crawls, even a few inches, reward him with the treat and praise.
You can use this trick to have him crawl under a chair, or under a horizontal bar.
Prerequisite: "Sit"
This is one of the most useful tricks because it is the beginning of many other tricks like "Play Dead", "Roll Over", and "Crawl".
Issue the command "Sit" then say the command "Down" (or "Lay") and pass a treatin front of his mouth going to the ground with your hand. Your puppy will naturally follow the treat and will end up laying down.Give him the treat when his forearms are stretch out front and offer praise.
This should progress till you can just say "Down" and point to the ground and your puppy should lay at your feet.
This is the first trick you should ever teach. It is the basis of many other tricks and it's important that it is taught thoroughly.
Stand in front of your puppy and hold a hand above his head: say 'Sit' and move your hand slightly behind the puppy's head. The puppy will raise its head to watch your hand and his rear end will lower. When the puppy's rear begins to go down, say "good sit." Repeat this often.
You may need to assist your dog by lowering with a delicate push to the hind quarters of your dog. Always provide praise and a reward.
Prerequisites: "Sit"
Have your dog sitting and say "Shake" and touch the dog's right paw. As soon as he raises it, or you raise it, shake it a little and offer praise and a treat.
This trick is a good replacement behavior for dogs who jump up on people. When your dog is excited and jumping up, tell him to dance and gently hold his front legs and lift them so he is standing on his back legs. Say "Dance" and offer praiseand a treat and put his feet back on the ground.
After mastering this, see if your dog can do it by himself. Small dogs generally have a better balance then larger dogs.
Teaching to speak is just a matter of timing. You have to catch your dog barking, say the command, "Speak", and provide the reward or praise. You can accomplish this by finding something that already makes him bark, like a passing car or certain toy, or you can coax him to bark by getting him excited about going for a walk or playing a game, and when he finally barks, say "Speak" and give him a reward. After a while he will bark when you say "Speak".
One word of caution, if your dog already has issues with too much barking, this would be a good trick to skip.
Prerequisites: "Lay Down"
Start by issuing the command "Down" then gently roll him onto his side while saying "Play Dead". While he is on his side, keep his head on the floor and repeat the command. Encourage him to stay there for a few seconds, then say "You're Faking", let him stand up and then give the reward.
"Take a Nap" is the same trick but replacing the commands with "Take a Nap" and "Wake Up".
Prerequisite: "Sit"
Have your dog sit, facing you. Hold a treat just above his head and say "Beg". Your dog will probably lift his front feet off the floor and when he does, give him the treat. Repeat the trick waiting slightly longer before giving the treat.
This is a hard trick for some dogs because they lack the balance. This encourages and develops balance. Be careful not to let your dog fall on his back.
"Give Me a Kiss" is one of the easiest tricks. Everytime your dog licks your face, say, "Give Me a Kiss" and reward him by saying "Good Boy", giving him a hug, and rubbing his ears. Your dog will quickly think about licking your face everytime he hears the command.
Sit in a chair while holding a treat between your knees. When your dog pushes his face against your leg to get the treat, say "Say Hello". Next say "Ok" and give him the treat when he lifts his head away from your leg. Increase the time that your dog is touching your leg until eventually he will just keep it there while you pet him.
While walking toward your dog, say "Go Back". He will want to get out of your way and will automatically walk backwards. To make your dog walk backwards in a straight line, try this in a narrow hallway. Eventually you should be able to stand still and say "Go Back" with excellent results.
Here's a trick where timing is everything. Every time you see your dog yawn, say "Give Me a Big Yawn" or "Are You Tired?", or "Show Me Those Tonsils". Eventually he will yawn when he hears those words. This may take an extremely long time, but praise him each time he yawns and he will think he's performing a trick, which eventually he will be.
Prerequisite: "Shake"
Hold out your hand like you are going to shake your dogs paw. When your dog lifts his paw to shake, don't grab it. Pull back your hand and say "Wave", then give him a treat. You may have to tease him into thinking you want to shake but as soon as he realizes there is a treat to be had, he will make the connection. Waving your hand a little may help getting his paw to wave as well.
Tell your dog to "Speak" or catch him when he is barking. Kneal in front of him and say "Quiet" and as soon as he stops, even for a second, give him a treat. Repeat this till your dog loves to hear "quiet". Increase the quiet time till he can stay quiet for many seconds.
Once this trick and the "Speak" trick are mastered, make a game of it. Say "Speak", "Quiet", "Speak", "Quiet". Entertain your friends and make your dog look smart.
Put a treat in one hand and show your dog. Close both hands making fists and hold your hands in front of you and say "Which One?". Your dog will probably use his mouth to touch your hand with the treat, but hold out until he paws at your hand, then give him the treat.
Once the basic paw to hand movement is made consistantly, you don't have to show your dog which hand the treat is in, most likely he will guess correctly most of the time. Amazing!
Stand and face your dog. Place a treat near your dog's nose and as he follows it, move it round your body, switching hands in behind you so you don't have to move. All the time saying "Circle". When your dog gets back around front, give him the treat and praise him. Use short lessons several times a day.
This is one of the tricks, along with "Back" that are used in dance routines with dogs.
With your dog right in front of you, blow a whistle and give your dog a treat. Do this several times during a session and do many sessions throughout the day. Over a period of several days, increase the distance between you and your dog when you blow the whistle. Your dog should be running to you every time he hears the whistle.
After this is mastered inside, take your dog to a fenced in yard and continue training. Watch when your dog is distracted and give it a blow then to see if he comes. If he doesn't, go back to shorter distances without distractions and progress slower this time.
Prerequisite: "Lay Down"
Sit on the ground with your dog and have him lay down. While holding a treat, put your hand in front of your dog's nose and lead him toward the ground. As soon as his chin touches the ground, say "Head Down". Then say "OK" and give him the treat after he lifts his head. Increase the time that his chin has to stay on the ground and eventually he will keep it there while you pet him. Only give the treat after you have released him by saying "OK".
Prerequisites: "Lay Down"
First, identify what you want to be considered as a bed, either a dog bed, a blanket, or a towel will suffice. Stand with your dog and say "Go To Bed" and then take him to the bed, issue the command, "Lay Down" and give him a treat and praise. Repeat this many times. Eventually send the dog to bed by himself. If he does, walk over and give him the treat and praise.
This can also be used to send your dog to his crate.
This is the most important command you can teach your dog. Without it, you are betting that physical restraints will keep your dog and you together. They will not. At some point your dog will slip out of his collar, out an open door, through a hole under the fence, or some other way escape his confinement. When the inevitable happens, you should have "Come" as your tool of choice. It could save your dog's life.
With your dog right in front of you, say "Come" and give your dog a treat. Do this several times during a session and do many sessions throughout the day. Over a period of several days, increase the distance between you and your dog when you say "Come". Your dog should be running to you every time he hears you say "Come".
After this is mastered inside, take your dog to a fenced in yard and continue training. Watch when your dog is distracted and say "Come" then to see if he comes. If he doesn't, go back to shorter distances without distractions and progress at a slower rate.
This is another command similar to the come command and can be used if come doesn't work. Hold a treat between two fingers and give the command "Touch"and hold your hand down to let your dog get the treat from your hand. Do this twice, then on the third time, keep the treat in the opposite hand from the touch hand and again issue the command "Touch" and when the dog touches the hand, feed him the treat. Swapping hands is done so the dog doesn't decide there isn't a treat so he doesn't need to touch. This command appears to work better than "Come" because it has the verbal command and the hand sign language.
Prequisites - "Sit" and "Stay"
Have your dog sit and get in front of your dog. At 6 inches away from your dog, toss a soft toy or food towards your dog's mouth and say "Catch". Your dog will likely miss many times which is okay. If your dog does miss, be sure he does not get the toy or treat. Give a big reward when your dog does catch, lots of praise and a treat. Once your dog gets good at this, have him stay and move farther away. This trick will likely take multiple sessions so don't get discouraged, some dogs take a while to get coordinated.
This is a trick that is part of dance moves. Start off a foot away from your dog with your legs apart. Put food in your hand and move your hand behind your back between your legs. Reward your dog every step he makes toward you. Have your legs spread out wide to make it easier for your dog. Offer lots of praise when your dog makes it through your legs. The next time, reward your dog when he is half way through and when he makes it all the way through. Add a cue word, such as "Through" as the command. Your hand between your legs and the cue word should signal the trick. Gradually phase out the food so your dog only gets it when he is all the way through, then begin rewarding on every second "Through". If you have already taught "Touch", you may initially use touch with your hand between your legs instead of holding the food. Be sure to reward each sucessful step towards the completion of this trick.
Some dogs like this trick too much and will begin doing it to everyone so be forewarned.
Prerequisite: "Through"
This is a continuation of the trick "Through". First, you do the "Through" command and walk your dog through your legs and give a reward. Then take a treat in your left hand, and in front of you to the right side of your body, coax your dog around the right side, then back through the legs. Then take a treat in your right hand, and in front of you to the left side of your body, coax your dog around the left side, then back through your legs again. At this point your dog has completed a figure 8 going through, around the right leg, through, around the left leg and through again. It sounds more complicated than it really is.
Take a giant step forward with your right foot but stop as soon as your legs are apart. Now with your dog on the left, lure your dog through your legs with a treat held in your right hand. Perform this maneuver several times till your dog gets the hang of it. Then switch around using your left foot forward coaxing your dog from the right with food in your left hand. Finally put it all together and you have a "Walking Weave". Gradually phase out the food and reward only occasionally so your dog never knows when it will get the reward. Further refinements include making less exaggerated footsteps and gradually eliminating the hand signals.
Blow lightly near your dog's ear and say "What's in your eye?" Give your dog a treat when he covers his eye.
Have your dog stand and place a treat near his nose so that he follows the treat. Move your hand slowly in a semi-circle towards your dog's hips. Your dog should follow, as soon as he begins to move, give him the treat. Repeat several times coaxing more movement from your dog. This may take several sessions. Offer lots of praise when he gets it right. Once your dog has this trick mastered, phase out the food only rewarding once when he has completed a full circle, the every second circle, then randomly. Some dogs spin one way better than the other. Once you are getting complete circles, give the movement a name, like "Spin" or "Circle" or "Turn". You can also use one name for a clockwise circle and one for counter-clockwise. As a visual cue, use left hand to signal counter-clockwise and right hand to signal clockwise. As advanced trick, have him do circles by your side or behind you.
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If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you; that is the principal difference between a dog and a man. |
Credits:
Paper and canvas prints of
"Growing Up Chinese Shar-Pei" by Barbara Keith are available online.